[Sublimation Guides] Sublimation Paper 101

Have you ever wondered how to create vibrant, long-lasting designs on fabric, mugs, or even metal? Sublimation paper is the secret! With sublimation printing, you’re not limited to just cotton or basic materials, you can transfer high-quality images onto a variety of surfaces with stunning results.

So, if you're a crafting enthusiast, or maybe just someone curious about diving into this world for the first time, don’t worry! I’ve got you covered. In this guide, I’ll walk you through what sublimation paper actually is, how it works, and the tools you’ll need to get those perfect prints.

I’ll even throw in some tips on inks, heat presses, and share a few simple tricks to help you avoid the common mistakes people make.

Ready? Let’s get started!

Sublimation is the process of printing where ink transforms from solid to gas without ever passing through the liquid state. It's just about transferring vibrant designs onto material, like cloth or ceramics. Here's a step-by-step explanation of how to go about it:

The process starts with creating or selecting the design you would like to print. The design is usually created on a computer with LOKLiK design software.

The design is printed on sublimation paper with sublimation ink . The ink turns into a gas when heated, and that is why sublimation printing is unique. The printer heats solid dye to gas, which sticks to the material.

You can sometimes use sublimation spray, especially when printing onto non-polyester materials or hard surfaces. This guarantees a coating is created on materials like cotton clothing or ceramics to allow sublimation ink to stick properly.

The sublimation paper, either spray-coated or not, is printed and applied on the material (fabric, mug, ceramic, etc.). Apply heat and high pressure in a heat press machine. The heat press setting is typically 180-200°C (356-392°F) for 40-50 seconds, depending on the material.

The heat, at this stage, sublimates the sublimation ink on paper, turning it into a gas. The gas moves into the fabric or material and bonds to the fibers (or coating) on a molecular level.

The result is vivid, full-color prints that will not peel, crack, or fade quickly.

After the heat transfer process is completed, the material is cooled. Upon cooling, the design is a permanent and fully integrated element of the material.

Sublimation paper comes in various types, each for the use of different printing needs and materials. The following are the most common types:

Fast drying, ideal for high-speed printing. 105g is thin and best for soft clothing and detailed designs, while 120g has better ink absorption and is suitable for clothing, mugs, and phone covers.

Has a sticky surface that resists shifting on stretch fabrics. The 120g is perfect for everyday apparel, and the 125g is better for sportswear that needs high adhesion. 

Transfers more ink for thicker colors. The 120g works well on fabric, but the 125g works well on rigid materials like ceramics.

Thicker, curling is avoided. Ideal for large prints on rigid surfaces like wood and metal.

HTVRONT sublimation paper is a favorite among DIYers and professionals for creating vibrant, long-lasting designs. Here are its key features:

To print on HTVRONT sublimation paper, here’s what you’ll need:

Open Cricut Design Space, upload your image, and select "Print Then Cut." Resize it to fit your project, and if needed, change the print size to 8.5” x 14” so you don’t run into sizing issues.

Duplicate your design to create a cutting layer for the HTV. Change the duplicate to "Basic Cut" so it cuts properly—this ensures your design prints edge to edge without any white showing.

Turn on the mirror setting for both layers. Send the design to your sublimation printer, keep the bleed on, and disable mirroring in the printer settings (since it's already mirrored in Design Space).

Load your printed design into the cutting machine and cut it using the medium cardstock setting. Then, cut the sublimation HTV using the everyday iron-on setting with the shiny side down.

Pre-press your shirt to remove moisture, then place the HTV about three inches below the collar. Press it at 310°F (154°C) for 10 seconds using heavy pressure. Let it cool completely before peeling.

Set your heat press to the correct temperature and time(see Heat Press Settings for more details):

Carefully line up your printed design over the HTV and secure it with heat tape. Slip some butcher paper inside and under the shirt to protect your heat press from ink bleed.

Cover everything with butcher paper and press at 392°F (200°C) for 50 seconds. Peel the paper while it’s still warm—this is the exciting part where you see your vibrant design come to life!

Once the time is up, carefully peel off the paper while it’s still warm to reveal your design. Take a moment to admire the bright, vibrant, and permanent sublimation print, it’s now beautifully transferred and ready to enjoy!

When customizing T-shirts, mugs, and more, two popular methods are sublimation printing and heat transfer vinyl (HTV). But which one suits your project best?

Sublimation printing uses special ink that bonds with polyester or coated surfaces when heated, creating long-lasting, vibrant designs. However, it doesn’t work on cotton.

HTV, on the other hand, is a vinyl material with adhesive that sticks to fabric when heat is applied, making it ideal for cotton and dark garments. Available in various finishes, HTV offers versatility but may peel or crack over time, unlike sublimation, which is more durable.

Here's a table comparing Sublimation Paper and Heat Transfer Vinyl (HTV) for clearer understanding. Head to this article for more information.

Sublimation printing is done by heating ink and turning it into a gas, bonding it to polyester material or coated materials to create durable, vibrant prints. It's ideal for high-polyester items but won't work with cotton or black-colored items.

On the other hand, DTF printing utilizes a special PET film and adhesive powder to print images onto various fabrics like cotton, polyester, and blends. This makes it more versatile for application on light- or dark-colored fabrics.

DTF prints, however, lie on the surface of the fabric, which leads to peeling or cracking after some time, although the latter is robust if well maintained.

Here’s a comparison table between Sublimation Paper and DTF Film for better understanding.

If you’re new to sublimation printing, you might wonder: Can I use regular copy paper instead of sublimation paper? Or even, Can I use sublimation paper in a regular printer? While both might look similar, the reality is regular copy paper is not designed for sublimation.

Here’s what happens when you try to use copy paper or a regular printer for sublimation.

Sublimation ink is dye-based and designed to turn into gas under heat. Unlike copy paper, which absorbs ink like a sponge, sublimation paper has a special coating that holds the ink on the surface until heat is applied. If you print on copy paper, the ink will soak in, leading to dull, faded, and blurry transfers.

During sublimation, heat converts ink into gas, which bonds permanently with polyester fabric or coated materials. Sublimation paper’s coating helps release nearly 100% of the ink during this process. Copy paper, however, traps most of the ink in its fibers, meaning barely any ink will transfer to your product, resulting in weak, faded prints.

Regular copy paper can scorch, curl, or burn when exposed to the high heat (around 375-400°F) required for sublimation. Sublimation paper is made to withstand these temperatures without warping or sticking to your blank.

No, sublimation paper cannot be used in a regular inkjet or laser printer and here’s why:

Sublimation printing requires special sublimation ink, which turns into gas under heat. Standard inkjet printers use dye-based or pigment-based ink, which won’t sublimate.

If you put sublimation paper into a regular printer, the ink will sit on the coated surface but never properly transfer onto your material.

Sublimation ink has a different viscosity and drying process than regular ink. Regular inkjet printers are not built to handle sublimation ink, and attempting to use it can clog the printheads, damage internal components, or even void your printer’s warranty.

When it comes to vibrant, permanent prints, both sublimation paper and Infusible Ink are popular choices. But which one is better?

Sublimation paper is used with sublimation ink, which turns into gas under heat, bonding permanently with polyester-based materials. It requires a sublimation printer and is ideal for printing custom designs on items like mugs, shirts, and coasters.

Sublimation paper is used with sublimation ink, which turns into gas under heat, bonding permanently with polyester-based materials. It requires a sublimation printer and is ideal for printing custom designs on items like mugs, shirts, and coasters.

But which one is better? The following key differences will help you make an informed decision.

If you're new to sublimation printing, you might be wondering: Can I use sublimation paper in my laser printer? The short answer is no, but why? And what happens if you try?

Sublimation paper is designed specifically for sublimation ink, which turns into a gas when heated. However, laser printers use toner, not liquid ink. This means:

Using sublimation paper in a laser printer won’t produce a successful transfer and could ruin your equipment.

If you own a laser printer and want to transfer designs onto fabrics or other materials, laser transfer paper is the right choice. Here’s how it compares:

Not all sublimation papers are created equal, and when it comes to tumblers, choosing the right paper for different tumbler sizes is key to achieving vibrant, long-lasting designs without fading or peeling!

Here's a detailed table!

What to avoid for best transfer results: 

For those new to sublimation printing, a common question is whether sublimation paper can be reused, or if it’s strictly a one-time use.

The simple answer: No, sublimation paper can’t be reused. Unlike heat transfer vinyl (HTV) or screen printing stencils , sublimation paper is designed for single-use only. This is because the process transfers the ink permanently, leaving no ink left for reuse.

So, here’s why you can't reuse sublimation paper:

Sublimation printing is an exciting way to create vibrant, long-lasting designs, but nothing ruins the process faster than sublimation paper sticking to your blank.

Whether you're working with mugs, tumblers, fabric, or other coated materials, a stuck transfer can lead to ruined prints, ghosting, or residue left behind.

So, how do you prevent sublimation paper from sticking? Here are some practical tips to ensure a smooth, frustration-free transfer:

One of the main reasons sublimation paper sticks is excessive heat or pressing for too long. Check your heat press settings carefully based on the material you’re using.

• Fabric (polyester shirts, pillowcases, etc.), Typically 385-400°F for 40-60 seconds

• Hard surfaces (ceramic mugs, metal plates, etc.), Around 375-400°F for 3-5 minutes

• Too much heat ink over-release + paper sticking! Always refer to manufacturer guidelines for your specific blanks.

A simple trick to prevent sticking is to place a sheet of butcher paper or a Teflon sheet between the sublimation paper and the heat press.

• Butcher paper absorbs excess moisture, preventing paper from sticking.

• Teflon sheets create a non-stick barrier that makes peeling easier.

• Avoid using wax paper or parchment paper, they won’t work as well and may leave unwanted textures on your design.

Moisture trapped in your blank can cause the sublimation paper to stick after pressing. A quick pre-press for 5-10 seconds can remove any moisture buildup before transferring the design.

• For fabric: Pre-press at 385°F for 5-10 seconds.

• For hard surfaces: Heat the item slightly before taping the design in place.

This step is especially important for humid environments where moisture can easily get trapped in materials.

If sublimation paper sticks after pressing, don’t rush to peel it off immediately!

• For fabrics: Let the shirt cool slightly before removing the paper to prevent ink smearing.

• For hard surfaces: Allow mugs, tumblers, or plates to cool before peeling to avoid ghosting.

Some people use spray adhesive to hold sublimation paper in place, but too much adhesive can make the paper stick even more. Instead, use heat-resistant tape to secure the design without leaving residue.

• Heat tape keeps designs from shifting without sticking.

• Avoid excessive spray adhesive, especially on hard surfaces like mugs or tumblers.

Not all sublimation paper is created equal! Cheap, low-quality paper may not have the right coating, increasing the chances of sticking.

• Look for reputable brands with good reviews.

• Use the correct weight, heavier paper tends to stick less than thin, flimsy sheets.

Timing is very important when it comes to sublimation printing. Your sublimation paper that is not completely dry can lead to uneven transfers, blurriness, or ghosting. So, how long do you have to wait before transferring it to your blank?

Sublimation paper drying time typically differs depending on the printer, ink, and paper you're using. However, as a rule of thumb, let it dry for at least 10-15 minutes after printing the design on the sublimation paper. 

This is usually sufficient time for the ink to have settled and for the paper to be dry enough to undergo the transfer process. You should also, nevertheless, check for signs that the paper is dry enough to use.

It’s not just about waiting 10-15 minutes, it’s about making sure the paper feels ready to go. Here’s how you can tell:

Touch the printed area gently with your finger or a clean cloth. If you notice that the ink feels wet or you see smudges transferring to your finger, then the paper isn’t dry yet.

Sublimation paper should feel slightly stiff and smooth after the ink has dried. If it still feels soft or like the ink hasn’t settled in, give it a little more time.

Some sublimation papers have a glossy finish right after printing. If the paper is still glossy, it’s not fully dry, as the ink hasn’t settled completely into the coating yet. You should wait until the glossy look has faded, leaving the paper with a matte, dry appearance.

Sublimation printing is awesome, but sometimes things go wrong. One common issue is sublimation paper sticking to your material during transfer, which can ruin your design and waste time and materials. 

Don't stress! Here's a quick guide to fix it when it happens.

First, let the material cool down completely. If it is warm, trying to strip off the paper can tear it or damage the design. Let it cool down for 10-15 minutes naturally before you attempt stripping off the paper.

When the material starts to cool, you can try peeling off the sublimation paper. Start in one corner and work around the edges slowly, being careful not to damage the design. 

A craft knife or tweezers can be employed to work into the edge if it is stuck in an extremely small area. Gently, don't rush.

If the paper is still stuck, apply a little heat to loosen it. Use your heat press or heat gun at low temperature (about 250°F/121°C) and heat the area for about 5-10 seconds. This should loosen the adhesive between the paper and the substrate.

If the paper is still stuck and will not be peeled off easily, you may try applying a small amount of acetone or rubbing alcohol on a clean cloth. 

Soak the cloth with the solvent (not dripping with it) and rub gently on the area where the paper is stuck. This should break the glue between the paper and the surface. Use solvents with caution, however, as they may destroy certain materials.

Occasionally, sublimation paper leaves behind paper fibers or residual ink on the fabric. If this is the case, use rubbing alcohol and a clean cloth to wipe away the residue gently without smudging or distorting the design.

Sublimation paper is the key to achieving bright, permanent prints in your sublimation projects. It holds and passes on dye to polyester materials and mugs, among others, and is thus vital for crisp, permanent prints.