How to Convert a Printer to DTF

As garment printing evolves, there is a growing need for the use of more technical printers with certain advantages over the standard ones. DTF printers are generally expensive, but if your budget is low, there is no need to worry. You can convert your regular printer to enjoy new technical advantages.

Are you ready to modify your printer to handle special DTF films and inks? We’ve got you covered. But first, what is DTF printing, and how does using a DTF printer benefit you?

Direct-to-film printing (DTF) is a relatively new technique that allows you to transfer designs to materials such as wood, fabric, and metal. Unlike regular printing methods such as the Direct-to-garment printing, DTF printing is more flexible, and durable, and offers more printing options.

Direct-to-film works by printing a design on a special film and then applying adhesive powder to it. This makes the transfer process easier for you by transferring the design to the fabric using a heat press machine.

DTF prints are high quality with high color contrast compared to regular prints and adhere relatively better to a wide range of substrates.

Another advantage is that you don’t need to pretreat the substrate before the transfer because the adhesive powder replaces the pretreatment for direct bonding. This will help you save on time and cost and also reduce room for error (great for beginners).

To successfully convert your printer for DTF printing, you'll need the following essential components:

Now that you have everything ready, it is time to convert your printer to DTF.

As already stated earlier, your printer should be a compatible model with DTF, otherwise, it just won't work.

With the printer, clean the nozzles and flush out any residual ink in preparation for the DTF ink. Ensure the printhead is also in good condition, then remove any unnecessary objects that could mess with the PET film feeding process.

Start by removing the external covers to expose the internal parts like the ink delivery system and printhead. Open the printer cover as you would normally when replacing ink cartridges. Remove the ink cartridge holder and access the printerheads.

In simple terms, these are refillable cartridges or a Continuous Ink Supply System (CISS), DTF inks, and PET film rollers. It might sound complicated to get these installed, but it is rather simple when done correctly.

Use a cleaning solution to completely flush out all the ink in the printer before refilling it with DTF-specific inks.

Start with the ink cartridges or the CISS system, whichever you have, install them, and fill the ink tanks with DTF ink. It is better to use syringes for more precision. Perform a nozzle check to see if everything works correctly.

Next to go in are the film rollers. If your printer has a roll-fed media, install the PET film rollers for smooth feeding of the film.

To reassemble the printer, replace all removed parts in reverse order of how you disassembled it.

The Raser Image Processor software controls the print settings and is a lifesaver when using white ink.

Every software comes with installation instructions which differ depending on the brand. After installation, you have to configure the print settings such as the resolution, ink density, and layer order.

Select the highest print quality option available, and the resolution to 1440x720 DPI or 1440x1440 DPI for sharp and high-quality images. Using ICC profiles specific to your DTF ink and film also helps with the print quality and color calibration.

For the layer order, remember that the color layer always comes first, followed by white, and never the other way around. (Don’t forget to mirror your designs before printing).

You can now check if your hard work paid off through a sample print.

Start by loading the DTF film in the printer with the glossy side facing up. This is the side the design will be printed on. On the RIP software, select the design you want printed, layer it correctly then print.

Some of the aspects you should check on the print the uniformity, print sharpness, and ink density. If either of those doesn’t match your expectations, you need to recalibrate the printer or adjust the settings on the software.

Wait until the printed film is cured to touch it, otherwise the ink will smudge.

This process is necessary for the design to fully adhere to the substrate. First, you need to sprinkle a reasonable amount of adhesive powder on the PET film, then shake it off to remove the excess and ensure all the areas are covered. The DTF curing powder should be applied while the ink is still wet after printing for better adhesion and stability of the design on the fabric.

Then, cure the powder in the heat press or oven for a few minutes. This part is important because it sets the foundation and prepares the film for transfer. You will know it is ready when it forms a smooth sticky layer.

For the transfer process, place the film on the fabric with the printed side facing the fabric. Set the fabric on the heat press plates and press it for up to 15 seconds at 170°C. remember that different substrates have different recommended heat press settings, so check the manufacturer’s instructions.

Depending on the type of adhesive powder you use, you might have to do a cold or warm peel. Carefully peel the PET film to leave the design on the fabric.

Check for any inconsistencies in your print, especially for the first prints after the conversion because they help you know if the process was successful or not. If you notice any inconsistencies, repress the design for another 10 seconds with medium pressure.

It is also okay to review the previous steps such as re-applying the adhesive powder in case of a consistent problem with the transfer.

Selecting an appropriate printer is important, not just because of the quality of prints, but also because some models just cannot be converted successfully. Your chosen model should support DTF inks and white inks.

Certain printer models stand out for better inkjet printer DTF conversions to DTF because of their compatibility and ease of printer DTF modification. Here is a list of my recommendations.

1. Epson printers are the most converted printers. This is mostly because they are widely preferred due to their high-quality prints, large-formatting printing, and are budget-friendly. Some good models are Epson SureColor P800/P900, Epson L1800, and Epson SureColor F570. The latter one is a dye-sublimation printer with good consistency for all your sublimation projects.

2. The Canon PIXMA Pro-100/Pro-10 is also a good choice for small-scale DTF printing. It is a good choice for converting because it can be modified to print on film.

3. The Roland BN-20 is used to print on film and fabric and is a solid choice for conversion because of its compact design.

Once you've successfully converted your printer to DTF, you might encounter some challenges. Here are some common issues and how to troubleshoot them:

Most printer settings can be adjusted on the RIP Software including the print quality and resolution, ink density, and white ink layers. For accurate color calibration, use ICC profiles then perform test prints to check for any color shifts and inconsistencies.

Remember only to use the bidirectional printing option if your printer is well-calibrated. Otherwise, stick to unidirectional printing.

Clogged nozzles, air bubbles in the ink lines, or low ink levels might cause uneven or missing colors. Check the nozzle heads and ensure that all the ink cartridges or CISS tanks are properly connected and aren’t leaking. Check for excessive ink density or incorrect film loading if the ink smears or smudges. 

This is caused by either improper loading of the PET film, excessive film thickness, dirty or worn-out rollers, or incorrect printer settings. To correct it, remove the stuck film and any residual pieces. Then reset the printer before properly reloading the PET film, in the proper size.

For a successful conversion process that will be easy on your pocket, you need to pay keen attention to these factors.

The printhead will be transferring ink to the film so its speed, quality, and durability are important to note. Thermal inkjets aren’t recommended for DTF printing because they can’t handle the thick ink used in the process well and will clog very often. Instead, a piezoelectric inkjet, although more expensive and mostly found in professional printers, is recommended as it can handle vicious inks.

Printheads using white ink are more likely to regularly clot. The easier and cheaper it is to clean them when they do, the better it will be for you. Using a printer with thermal heads requires intensive and more regular cleaning making it expensive to maintain.

The initial investment (buying a heat press machine and a printer) is almost always lower than getting a professional DTF printing machine. However, you will still encounter ongoing expenses that are unavoidable provided you are using the printer such as buying adhesive powder and film. 

If your conversion process is not done in the right way, the maintenance costs including the parts replacement, and general upkeep will cost you a big chunk of the money you were hoping to save.

While speed is an important aspect of the printing process, don’t sacrifice the print quality for faster printing. Some printers with the “draft mode” often have low resolution. The printer should have a sweet spot for printing and high quality. If you are printing large scale, the printer should have a high-volume capacity over a certain time frame to prevent frequent breakdowns and downtime.